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Sunday, October 17, 2010

How to Remove your Side Mirrors

ok here goes. i removed my mirrors so i could paint them and i figured it was easier to do this than to try and mask them up.

1; twist the mirror to allow access to the 2 mounting bolts and undo both with 10mm socket or tube spanner. Image Image

2; release the electrical connector by pushing the tab and pulling it apart.
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3; remove the black rubber gasket from the base of the mirror. then remove 3 screws and the metal base comes off. then there is 1 screw into the motor that needs removing.
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4; carefully lever up the actual mirror from the bottom with something wide, like a paint scraper so you don't crack the mirror. it should un-clip and tilt up away from the main housing. then just wriggle it free from the top mounts.
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5; undo the screws to release the plastic mirror surround from the housing. note, there is a clip that you have to release, it's in the picture near the silver housing. (narrow black peice sticking up)

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6; undo 3 screws from the white housing and it comes out still attached to the wiring.
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7; undo more screws and remove the black plastic backing plate.
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8; motor should now be free to remove ( might require some wriggling) and job is done.
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hope that is all clear and easy to follow.

This guide has been taken from ftoaustralia

How to Replace Stepper Motor and Input Sensor

I am recently experiencing "Flashing N" and idle probs, and thought Id share with you what I have done so far.

1. Replace Stepper Motor
2. Replace Fuel Filter
3. Working on replacing Input Shaft Sensor
4. Use "Wyns Injector Fluid in Petrol tank to clear injectors.
5. Check all vacuum hoses for "gunk"
6. Check Alternator and wiring
7. Clean Idle Screw

Points 3-7 yet to be done (this weekend)

The following Pic shows where the Stepper Motor is, Fule filter and also the "Output" Shaft Sensor. I initiall thought this was where the Input Sensor was located, but it pays to double check and read the manual.



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The following picture is the pinout for the "Output Sensor"

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This pic highlights the Output Sensor - had some probs in getting it out from the top, but by going underneatht the car, I was able to gingerly leverage it out with a screwdriver.

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This pic shows the location of the Input Sensor. it pays to remove the air filter and pipe so as to get to it easily. The pinouts of the sensor are also very important, given that there are two types, as the pins determine which type you require. They also idenitfy whether your car is a pre 09/95 or a post 10/95 model.

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The following can help in determining this

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b17s12p7076&i=11632 - up to 09/95
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b17s12p1035&i=9265 - from 10/95 onwards

Close detail show it to be a pre 09/95 model.

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This guide has been taken from ftoaustralia

How to replace your FTO Starter Motor

You will need the following

Starter motor to replace with
14mm socket/spanner
12mm socket/spanner

1. First disconnect battery, this is a must even if like me with most wiring jobs you usually dont, failure to do this will result in a very unhappy car and owner

2. Jack up car both sides of the front and put axle stands underneath remember safety first people

3. Locate starter motor ( inbetween front crossmember and downpipe) and disconnect both wires the positive should have a red rubber cover like your battery + one, to undo this it should be a 12mm nut undo and remove wire. Then above that there should be another wire which should just unclip. (your new starter should be earthed to itself)

4. To remove the starter on the downpipe side of the crossmember at the rear of the starter there will be a 14mm bolt undo and remove completely. Then on the gearbox side of the crossmember there will be another 14mm bolt which is longer undo a remove completely, now the starter can be taken out.

5. For those of you with sandwich plate adapters for oil pressure/temp sendors you may need to remove these as I did to get starter out, I also had to remove downpipe heat shields which you may or may not have to do as not all are the same but then unit should just jiggle out with a bit of manouvering
6. Give area a clean up (it may be very oily)

7. Reassemble by doing opposite of above procedure reconnect battery and it should start like a dream, mine was better than ever has been

This guide has been taken from ftoaustralia

How to replace your O2 Lambda Sensor

When to replace your O2 sensor:
a) check engine lights coming on (and you have checked ecu error codes)
b) engine surging and/or hesitation
c) Poor or decreased fuel econmy (vehicle running rich)
d) Failed exhaust emissions testing
e) premature failure of the cat (rotten egg smell)
f) some manufacturers recommend replacement every 90,000km

Benefits of replacing
a) Increased fuel economy (may improve fuel economy as much as 10%-15%)
b) reduce exhaust emissions (keep the tree huggin hippies happy :D )
c) reduce the risk of costly damage to the cat (keep your walet happy)
d) ensure peak engine performance (keep you happy)
e) Decrease premature ageing of spark plugs.

What it does
Measures the presence of oxygen in the exhaust gas so that the engine ECU can adjust fuel/air ratios accordingly. Lambda is the point at which fuel and air are burned perfectly together, this is at a ratio of 14.7:1 air to fuel.

O2 sensor location:
Underneath car, screwed into drivers side of exhaust before cat, underneath drivers footwell.
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Tools:
1 x 22mm spanner
1 x side cutter pliers
1 x soldering iron
Electrical tape

Factory Wiring:
94 gr, 95 gpx, (will add more as i find out)
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Heater wires can connect toeither one there is no negative or positive

Purchasing:
Cost anywhere from $60-$110 for sensor
Purchase new O2 sensor from repco, supercheap etc Ask for o2 senor (4 wire) for 6A12 galant. ACA brand, Part Number: OX204 (thanks ben)

or

from purchase from (ebay) here
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/OXYGEN-SENSOR-O2-SENSOR-4-WIRE-UNIVERSAL_W0QQitemZ140181839675QQihZ004QQcategoryZ72469QQcmdZViewItem

Time: 30 mins

Installing:
1) Pull gromet out from underside of car. keep pulling and a white plug should follow, disconnect plug.
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2) Remove old sensor by unscrewing from exhaust. It might be tight so the use of a spray on lubricant like WD40 maybe needed (leave for a day for optimum effect).

3) Cut plug off old sensor but leave plenty of wire for reconnecting to new sensor.
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4) Solder wires from plug to new sensor (if brought sensor from ebay follow this diagram)
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Thanks Bennoz
All other brands will have a diagram or info on what colour wire goes to what. So just follow the diagram under factory wiring as where to wire up.

5) Tape solded connections and refit in opposite order as removed.

Side notes
The sensor after the cat is not an o2 sensor but a cat temp sensor.


Hope i havent left anything out and it helps

Disclaimer: This is an extremely easy task but i take no responsibilty for any incorrect information and by following this DIY, any work done on your vehicle is done so at your own risk...

This guide has been taken from ftoaustralia

How to replace your FTO Shocks and Springs

Alrighty, here's a guide on replacing shocks and springs - this guide can also be used if you are fitting lowered springs.

Special tools required: A pair of spring compressors (for suspension springs not valve spring compressors.)

I will use 1 front and 1 rear as examples as obviously both fronts and rears are the same.

Note: This job is MUCH more easily done on a hoist, but seing as I have no such luxury, this is aimed at the backyard hack who has a jack!

When replacing shocks - this is what you get. Not just inserts but complete struts:

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Front:
First up, jack the car up & remove the wheel, you will be presented with this:

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There are 2 x 17mm bolts that join the strut to the wheel hub assembly remove them.

Also remove the clip that holds the brake like into the small bracket on the side of the strut.

Now remove the 17mm nut holding the droplink to the strut side. If you find the entire ball joint of the droplink moving, then use a 17mm ring spanner to grip the flat section on the back of the ball joint - see pic:

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Then remove the 3 x 14mm nuts that hold the strut into the engine bay (see pic) - note: your strut tops may look a little different to mine. Standard ones are black circular rubber units rather than the adjustable ones pictured. On standard strut tops there will be a black plastic caps that hides the central nut - now is a good time to loosen that nut - BUT DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY. It will unspring the whole assembly.

Take care undoing the last 14mm nut - the strut will want to fall out. Hold it with one arm as you undo the last nut:

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Now the strut should come out (with some manouvering) and you should attach your spring compressors & begin compressing the spring:

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Once the spring is compressed (ie no longer pushing hard up against either end of the spring seat) you can now undo the central nut you loosened earlier:

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Once that nut is removed, the whole strut assembly can be pulled apart. The strut top will come off first, then remove the spring (with spring compressors attached) then the bump stop and plastic casing will slide off the old shock:

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And you'll be left with the above ^

Reassembly is is the exact opposite to disassembly. Put the bump stop and case onto the new shock, then the spring (with spring compressors still attached), then the top cap, then the strut top. At this time you may wish to clean the join between the top cap & the strut top & regrease - as it is the joint that swivels when you turn the steering wheel.

Also note: If you are fitting lowered springs, now is the time to change them. Remove the spring compressors from the old springs (whilst they are off the assembly) and attach the compressors to your new springs - put them on the assembly with the compressors attached. Then refit all the other parts in the same order you removed them.

Replace the central nut and tighten as much as you can by hand to complete the new assembly and remove the compressors:

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Insert the assembly back into the car. First up hold it in & put on the 3 top nuts, then you can put in the 2 x 17mm bolts that hold the strut to the hub, then re-attach the droplink & the brake line. Once its all bolted back on solid, tighten up the top central nut & replace the centre cap (if you have standard strut tops.)

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Oh, and I touched up my caliper paint whilst I was in there.....

Okay - now for the rears! Please excuse the photo quality, it was getting quite dark at this point in time.

First up, open the boot & move the padding on the rear arches. Underneath you will find this:

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Again - loosen up the centre nut. You'll find that the whole shock wants to rotate, so use a shifter to grab the small flat section on the very top of the shock & hold it whilst you loosen the centre nut. Once loose, undo the 2 x 14mm nuts that hold the shock to the car. Again DO NOT remove the nut altogether, that would release the whole asembly.... *Boing!*

Now remove the 17mm bolt that holds the assembly to the lower control arm:

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The whole strut assembly will now drop down as far as it can go to the lower control arm. If you had a hoist - at this time you could pry the lower control arm down far enough to remove the strut, but I had a jack & that was not possible. I had to disassemble the strut in-car & reassemble in-car.....

Compress the spring using your spring compressors with the strut loose (but still in the car) like so:



Once you have compressed the spring, you can now remove the already loosened centre nut. You can then remove the top mount, the top spring cup, and eventually remove the spring & bump stop. This is a bit of a juggle in car as you can see by the pics. You can see the lower part of the shock hanging down throught the control arm. Its the only way you can get enough clearance to remove the spring & other bits from it:


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You can see here all the parts from the strut removed in order from left to right. Once the shock is on its own resting on the lower control arm in-car, you can then compress it by hand enough to remove it.

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You then need to do the same to the new shock to put it in. It needs to be placed through the rear arm to be resting as per the above pic as well.

Re-assembly is done in the reverse order as above. If changing springs, now is the time to remove the compressors from your old spring, apply them to the new spring and place it back on the new shock (in-car) and continue to re-assemble the strut as per the reverse of dis-assembly.

Pic of reassembled strut bolted back in:

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The best way to raise the shock back into its original position is to use a hydraulic trolley jack. This also makes is possible to line up the lower mount of the shock to the lower control arm well enough to feed the 17mm bolt back thru!

Now - before you get all excited and go for a test floggin' around the block, the first drive you should take it on is to the nearest place that can wheel align the car properly!!!

In a majority of cases your wheel alignment will be out to the sh*t house... even to a dangerous point. First thing you should do is get that sorted.

This guide has been taken from ftoaustralia

How to change the automatic transmission fluid in your FTO

Changing Auto Transmission Filter and Fluid on a FTO GPX

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Consumables

  • 2x AT Fluid 4L Castrol TQ Dextron III


  • [2x $24.99] = $49.98

  • Oil Filter Part No: Mitsubishi MD360935, Coopers Z411


  • $7.99

    Tools

  • 12mm Socket



  • Socket End



  • Phillips Head Screw Driver



  • A Jack



  • Axel Stands or Blocks of Wood



  • A Small Funnel



  • Misc Stuff

  • Cardboard or Newspaper



  • Old Tub eg Ice Cream Container or Empty Engine Oil Container


  • Total Cost: $57.97

    .isclaimer:.
    This is a guide i have written to be used as a supplementary resource to people wanting to do their own mechanical work. No liability can be accepted for any loss, damage or injury caused by undertaking this guide.
    Follow this guide at your own risk.



    .:Introduction:.
    In my opinion Automatic transmission fluid and filter should be replaced every 15,000kms, this fact is often neglected and some even say 50,000kms, in my experience ive noticed that late shifts and unsmooth shifts start happening at about 25,000km of old oil use in my dads camry, and 20,000km in my old ford laser. If you want to check if your car is in need of a transmission fluid and filter change, after a drive pull the transmission dipstick out and check if the fluid is at the "HOT" level, this should be engraved onto the dipstick. Fresh transmission fluid is bright red and a sweet smell kind of like ribena but not quiet. If it is dark or smells burnt then you need a transmission fluid change as soon as possible. It is also a good idea to change it if you are experience late or unsmooth shifting. It is very important to use the right tranmission fluid in your car, check your service manual for the correct type. The FTO GPX is specified to take DIAQueen ATF-SP3 but can also take Dextron III.



    .:Step 1 - Jacking the Car Up:.
    Before jacking the car up, make sure you are on a level surface, you dont want the car moving while your under it. Once the car is on level ground, jack the car up at the jack points. Once its high enough, place the axel stands or blocks of wood under the car, the purpose of this is so that if the jack fails, the car wont fall on you. DONT GET UNDER A CAR THAT IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK (unless you want to die). Also NEVER USE BRICKS IN PLACE OF WOOD OR THE AXEL STANDS, this is because bricks crack when the car falls on them.


    .:Step 2 - Removing the Intake Pipe:.
    Remove the air intake pipe, it will be hose clamped in so just use your phillips head screw driver and loosen it and then yank it out. This just gives you a larger area to work with and also prevents ATF from spilling or spraying on your air filter if its not boxed.
    This shows the automatic transmission after the air intake pipe is removed, as you can see you get alot more room to work with, the black knob sticking up with the white writing is the transmission filter.

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    .:Step 3 - Drain the ATF Fluid Out:.
    There are many ways to drain the ATF Fluid Out but this is the most simple and easiest, remove the 3 bolts under the automatic transmission, adjacent to the transmission pan, these require a 12mm socket, dont attempt to take the transmission pan off as it is secured by atleast 15 bolts and it takes 10minutes to take each of the bolts off because of the lack of area to work with.
    The 3 bolts to undo are pictured below. The black coloured metal is the transmission pan.

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    .:Step 4 - Draining the Rest of the System:.
    More than half of the old automatic tranmission fluid stays in the torque convertor, so to drain it you need to disconnect the transmission cooler line that runs to the front of the radiator. I chose the easiest hose to get off, which is pictured below. It is directly under the intake pipe. Use a phillips head screwdriver and undo the hose clamp and then just pull it off. Then aim this hose down to the ground using the tranmission pan as support, it is best to aim it into a ice cream container.

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    A word of warning this will get messy from here on. So make sure you have cardboard or thick layers of newspaper place on your driveway. Start your engine and move the gear lever throught all the gears for about 1 second and then to neutral and let it run for no more than one minute, if the fluid stops draining earlier than one minute, stop the engine.

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    .:Step 5 - Cleaning up:.
    Now wipe the hose down and the bolts and put them back in place.

    .:Step 6 - Replacing the Filter:.
    Spin off the old filter and toss it to the side. Now wipe down the surface where the filter was making sure it is clean. Apply a thin layer of new automatic tranmission fluid to the rubber seal on your new tranmission filter by dipping one of your fingers in the new fluid and running it around the seal a few times. Then just spin the new one on only hand tight.

    .:Step 7 - Replacing the AT Fluid:.
    Remove the dipstick and place the funnel into the tube, pour 5L of the new fluid through the dipstick tube. Now start the engine for 2 minutes then move the lever through all the positions and then move it to neutral. Now check that the fluid is at the COLD level on the dipstick. Top up if necessary. Now drive the car around for about 20minutes so that its at operating tempreture and check that the FLUID is at the HOT level on the dipstick, if not top up the required amount.


    Gratz, youve just changed your transmission fluid and filter and saved a lot of money!!!

    This guide has been taken from ftoaustralia

    Using Factory Box for Intake Setup

    You will need

    mushroom style pod filter
    flexible ducting
    hose clamps
    longer bolts x4
    pod filter adapter plate
    90 deg silicone elbows x2
    intake pipe

    First of all remove factory intake piping (if you want to change this also)
    Remove factory air feed (from bumper up to airbox) including small restrictive elbow that goes from bottom of box to the hole that original air feed leads to

    Once box is removed remove Air flow meter from box also

    Here is how it will all go together (exploded view)

    Note the filter adapter and longer bolts

    next cut out the plactic tabs

    You just have to remove bits so adapter can sit flush against it

    Next bolt the adapter to inside of box with Air flow meter outside together using longer bolts as original ones are not long enough





    Finally clamp pod filter to adaptor plate and thats that part done.



    For the piping from Air flow meter to Throttle body you can see how I used the 90 deg elbows and some piping (all 3 inch diametre)



    This does cause a small issue with breather from rear rocker cover so you can either drill a hole in intake piping to run a hose between the two or I just used a breather filter like so



    Next is the cold air feed to bumper.

    I used a flexi pipe brought from autobarn etc and ran it directly from bumper to air box (where had already removed small elbow and original air feed)





    Now put it all together the filter will fit but I cant be sure other cone style ones will.
    And dont forget to put a couple of drainage holes in cold air feed to help remove water just incase as water+motor=bad

    Left out pic of pod clamped to unit



    and exploded view


    This guide has been taken from ftoaustralia